1. WHAT'S YOUR BEAUTY PERSONALITY?

On the following pages we shall help you to analyze yourself. First, we'll take a look at your entire figure and show you how your proportions can influence the way you wear your hair. Then, we'll help you identify your face type and suggest ways to play up your best features and play down those that aren't quite perfect. So on your mark, get set, and let's go!

What do you really look like?

Even if you're not the vain type, or don't have a cover-girl face, you look at yourself hundreds of times each day. But what do you see? An early morning headful of curlers, then the comb-out. .. a double row of teeth in a grimace . . . the backs of your legs to straighten seams ... a flash of you dashing by a store window ... a peek at your lips in a compact.

All piecemeal. But do you ever take a really good look at all of you? You should, because ALL OF YOU has a lot to do with the right hairdo for you.

Put yourself in the spotlight.

Do a self-analysis job. Wear your leotards or your panties and bra and stand in front of a long mirror. Use it as a real looking glass and look at yourself well. Study your body from head to feet. Pretend your reflection belongs to someone else. Be critical, bold, candid, complimentary.

Be your own tape recorder.

Get a flexible tape measure and record just how you stack up. First, stand bare-footed close to the mirror. Now, flatten down your hair and make a mark with a crayon or lipstick on the mirror exactly where the top of your head is. Stand per­fectly erect—don't duck your head down. Next, make a crayon line on the mirror for the rest of your body. While we're specifically interested in proportion of head to rest of body, just for the fun of it divide yourself in seven-and-a-half parts just the way it is done in the sketch on the opposite page.

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 First, measure your head from crown to chin. Look straight ahead while you are doing this— don't dip down. Then measure from chin to tip of breast, then from breast to waist, and then down to your feet.

The proportions in the sketch are those given to art students and are considered perfect. Ideally, the distance from chin to breast should be one head length. And from breast to waist should be another head length. The rest of you should be four-and-a-half times the length of your head.

How do you stack up?

Don't fret—few girls have perfect proportions by art book standards. But it's fun to find out how near to perfection your natural figure is.

Now use your head.

Your over-all height should be seven-and-a-half times the length of your head from crown to chin. If the measurement is less or more than it should be, this is where your hairdo can come to the rescue.

If the length of your head is proportionately too short, a high and mighty hairdo is probably for you. Waves brushed high will give the illusion of head height. (If you have a high forehead, brush a few wisps down.) And wearing low or medium heels will keep the rest of your body from appear­ing elongated, and also will keep the overall pro­portions right.

If your head is more than the classic length in proportion to the length of the rest of you, try brushing your hair flat on top and down or out on the sides (not too low on top if you have a low forehead). And wear high heels—they'll add inches to the rest of your body.

If your head height is perfect, stick to a normal hairdo—not too high and not too flat.

Back to your mirror.

It's time to have fun scoring the proportions of the rest of your figure. Each of these measure­ments will have an effect on your hair style—so let's go!

Take that flexible tape and measure around your bust Hold it leniently—not loosely, not tightly. Now, measure around your hips and around your waist.

This is the way your measurements should add up: Your waist should be eight to ten inches smaller than your bust. And your bust measure­ment should be a bit smaller than that of your hips. Of course, if you have fashion modelling in mind, hips and bust should be almost even-steven*

Are your hips under than they should be?

Do: Fluff your hair up and out. This will act as a counter-balance for your silhouette. But re­member, if you have a high forehead, foreshorten it with bangs or light wisps. (See Heart, page 18).

Don't: Fluff it too much or too low, since this will dimmish the width of your shoulders. And never wear a tight little cap of a hairdo, since this will give you a pyramid silhouette.

Are you tall and thin?

Do: Wear a hairdo with soft fullness. Your neck is also probably longish and thin, so wear your hair fairly long, too.

Don't: Wear a high hairdo. And don't sleek or draw your hair back too tightly away from your face.

Are you short and fairly plump?

Do: Wear your hair fairly short and brush it upward in soft waves, like a soft cloudburst.

Don't: Wear it too tight or with too much curl. And never wear a huge balloon or a long, bushy "do."

Let's face it!

Now that you've taken general inventory of yourself, tip to toe, it's time to face up to your face.

Have you ever studied its shape? Julius Caruso, the New York hair stylist, says that few girls do. And yet he feels that face shapes have more to do with the shape of a hairdo than anything else. - He suggests that every girl who wants to be her own hair stylist should first analyze her face and see how it shapes up before deciding on a "do." It's an easy trick—with a mirror. Pick your type.

Sit down at your mirror, get your lipstick ready, and let's go! First, brush the hair away from your face and hold it back with a band or ribbon. Now, look straight in the mirror and trace the shape of your face right on it with your lipstick. Compare your drawing with the following sketches and pick your type. Find out what's your line—and what to do about it.

THE HEART The Shape:

The forehead is high and wide (the perfect heart has a widow's peak). Cheeks are rounded, sloping into a pretty little chin. What to do:

Wear your hair fairly long and fluff it out below the ears—this will give width to your chin. Have it dip in close to your temples and cheek­bones. Keep it fairly smooth on top. If you are blessed with a widow's peak, be sure to em­phasize it. Have soft waves curving away from it, then have them curve down onto your forehead at the sides so that they practically cover the fore­head. Lacking a widow's peak, try a diagonal side part Then let the part extend into a fluff of side bangs, breaking the width and height of your forehead. Or brush a few wisps down.

But if your forehead is extremely high and you want to emphasize that little chin, wear your hair about ear length and cover your forehead with bangs (see Michel de Paris, page 64). Or try a forehead fluff (see Julius Caruso, page 108).

THE DIAMOND

The Shape:

The forehead is high and narrow. The cheeks are wide—tapering sharply into a pointed little chin.

What to do:

Wear bangs to conceal the shape and height of your forehead. They may be soft and wavy, start­ing from a side part. They may curve in at the temples. Or they may start high on the crown, with no part. (Never wear a center part if you have a Diamond face!) These can be straight or curly, depending on the rest of your coif.* To lengthen your face, wear your hair fairly long. And to widen the chin, wear it full below your ears.

*If straight, see that they extend well to the sides. If wavy or curly, sweep them out and into your hairdo at the side, to give a widening effect at the temples.

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The Shape:

Round is round is round. Cheeks are curved. Chin has little definition. Forehead is fairly low.

What to Do:

Height is what this face needs. Also a lengthen­ing effect. Never wear a completely rounded hair­do, or a frilly, curly one. And never, never wear it flat on top. Achieve height with hair brushed up, or try swooping it out on one side. (See Rubin­stein, page 104; also Jacy de Paris, page 60).

It can be lifted all over the crown with no part. Or it can be brushed high on one side from a side part. In either case, soft waves should dip in at temple or high cheek level. Then it can swish out at the sides below the ears. Also try tucking the hair behind your ears.

THE SQUARE

The Shape:

The forehead is fairly low and about the same width as the jaw. The chin has little definition.

What to Do:

Curves are what a square face needs. Hair should be fairly short at the sides or swept up and away from the face. Never wear it longer than the ear tip. Never wear it flat on top. And, above all, never wear a center part. Your objective is to give your face height to take it out of the Square category. There are three effective ways to do this: 1. Brush hair up on top of your head in loose, soft waves and shape them to give a rounded effect on top of your square forehead—even wear bangs. (See Michel de Paris, page 124.) 2. Sweep hair across forehead in a wide arch, starting from an invisible part placed low on one side. (See Charles of Ritz, page 88). 3. Wear a fake widow's peak. (See Michel Kazan, page 80.)

THE OBLONG

The Shape:

As with the Square, the forehead is about the same width as the jaw. But it's higher and the length of the face is longer. Again, the chin has little definition.

What to Do:

Unlike the Square, the Oblong needs to be shortened. And, as with the Square, never wear a flap top. This would only emphasize the square­ness of your forehead. Instead, round out the top of your head without giving it too much height. Or give it a draped puff. (See Charles of the Ritz, page 112.) And round the sides to give the effect of width. A side part is excellent for this purpose and side bangs are perfect, since they break the height at the top of your head. At the sides, your hair can be fluffed out and rounded, but be sure it hugs your cheeks. Or, it can be curved out on one side. Both styles give the illusion of width. Hair should be jaw length. (See Julius Caruso, page 72).

THE PEAR

The Shape:

The forehead is narrow and the jaw is promi­nent. The same hairdos are recommended whether the chin is well defined or not.

What to Do:

The chief objective is to give width to the fore­head and the upper part of the face. Height won't hurt, either, as it will concentrate interest on the top of the head instead of the jaw. Hair should be below the ear tips. Use any type of part you prefer—center, side or asymmetric. Then brush your hair away from it, out and up, never down. Curve tile waves in at eye level Then, let them swoop out at the cheek bones. That's the trick to distract interest from too-wide jaws. (See Helena Rubinstein, page 92, and Enrico Caruso, page 56.)

THE OVAL

The Shape:

This is supposed to be the ideal shape. The fore­head is neither too high nor too short. The cheeks curve and are neither full nor too hollow. The chin is rounded and is neither too pointed nor too diminished.

What to Do:

The Oval is the classic shape, and any girl is lucky if she has it. It is the shape that all other shapes try to approach. But, if you have the truly classic Oval, you are missing out on a lot of fun. There's no challenge, no intrigue. You can wear your hair any which-way. You have none of the fun of experimenting with fascinating illusions. It is simply marvelous to be perfect. But, in a way, it's more fascinating to have a face that is slightly off-beat, so you can be your own artist!

What's your sideline?

Consider yourself now from other angles. If you have a triple mirror, all the better. If not, hold a hand mirror so you can take a good look at your profile. If it's perfect, don't read beyond this sentence!

But if your nose is too short or too long or if your chin recedes or juts out, there are hairdo tricks for you. Of course, unless you are am­bidextrous, it will be difficult for you to draw your true profile on the mirror. But a trusted friend could draw it for you. Or, she could out­line your shadow on the wall. Naturally, you can analyze your profile just by looking. But a draw­ing is a better way, so that you can really study it, compare it with the sketches that follow, and decide if you have a problem profile.

PROBLEM PROFILES

Does Your Forehead Seem too High?

If your forehead is smooth, and if you have a pretty hairline, be proud to expose it. It will give you a serene, intellectual look. But if it bulges, has a sharp slant, or has frown lines, a little con­cealment is for you.

What to Do About it:

Wear your hair almost any length, depending on the rest of your features. And you can wear it wavy or straight. The main thing is to have bangs. They can be all the way across, starting at the crown. Or they can sweep over your brow from a low-slung side part. Most important is to have them long enough to conceal your forehead.

What Not to Do;

There's only one don't for you. Never, never brush your hair away from your forehead.

Nose?

A retrousse nose can make you look pert and pretty, even sophisticated. Or it can make you look younger than your years. The way you wear your hair will decide between the two.

What to Do About it:

Wear your hair longish, at least chin level. A fringe of bangs would look pretty, but keep them smooth. Also brush your hair smooth over the crown and down the back of your head. Stick to soft, loose waves.

What Not to Do:

Avoid a short cut. And never, never wear curls that curve upward, the way your nose does.

Do You Have a Diminishing Chin?

There's nothing cuter and more feminine than a little chin (it can quiver so prettily under emo­tional stress). However, if it slopes too quickly into your neckline, it lacks definition. But hairdo tricks can give it an uplift treatment.

What to Do About it:

Take a positive approach! Have your hair at lip length. Curl it in soft waves over your fore­head. Then sweep it forward and upward in front of your ears. This will give your chin the uplift it needs.

What Not to do:

Don't repeat the line of your chin with a back hair silhouette that recedes. Avoid a duck tail at the back. And don't wear your hair longer than lip level.

Chin ?

A well-defined chin gives your face a look of strong character and determination. But if you feel it looks too determined, your hair style can help diminish it.

What to Do About it:

Wear your hair at chin level or below. Keep a smooth brow and frame your face with soft, up­ward curls. Brush it smooth over the crown and down the back. Give it a slight backward lift just below nose level, then sweep it forward into cheek curls.

What Not to Do:

Never wear a chignon or curls at the back of your crown. And avoid short haircuts.

Is Your Nose Too Long?

Exactly what is too long? Well, you'll just have to decide all by yourself. Many great beauties have long noses. But, perhaps, they have done something about their hairdos, too!

What to Do About it:

Wear your hair long, at least chin level or below.. Sweep hair away from your forehead and cheeks. Brush it down flat in back. Then, starting beneath ears, coil the ends toward your face.

What Not to Do:

Don’t have hair blossoming out at back of crown. Don't have hair as short as nose level.

Want to be pretty as a picture?

Your hairdo is your face's best friend. It's the frame, the showcase to dramatize your pretty face. It can accentuate the good points and minimize the not-so-good ones.

Now, think of your face as a picture—and you as an artist. Consider your natural face as a basic drawing, a rough outline, and go on from there.

Unlike most artists, you've decided on the per­fect frame first. Then you decide to take out your paints and brushes and fill in the details of the face you're painting. You aim at perfection—who doesn't? And you are well aware that color, a touch here and a touch there, can create marvelous illusions.

Be an artist with cosmetic tricks.

If your face is less than perfect, there is much you can do with makeup to give the illusion of perfection. First, take great care in selecting your basic pallette of colors.

Start with a good foundation. Study your skin tone carefully and pick a shade that will blend in well. Never use too dark or too light a shade for your over-all face. Your object in using founda­tion is NOT to make a false face. Your skin must have a natural glow, so use a natural looking foundation. Blend it in gently with clean fingers or clean sponge rubber. Never apply it too thickly. And don't be so short-sighted as to stop blending at the chin line. Smooth it down onto your throat. Never use the same shade of foundation year round. Change the basic color with the seasons to match the changing color of your skin through sun and weather.

It's a good idea to have on hand three graduat­ed shades of foundation. These will help you shift from season to season. They'll also help you with the beauty tricks, which we will be discussing shortly. Always remember this about illusion: dark (foundation or rouge) can diminish the ap­pearance of fatty or elongated areas. And light (foundation or powder) can highlight facial areas that are too narrow or thin.

Powder is almost as important as foundation cream. It compliments the foundation and should always be in the same color tone. Better to have it a shade lighter than darker.

Your eyebrows should look natural. Just as if s important for your facial skin to have a natural look, so it is with your eyebrows. Lucky are you if you have naturally dark brows. But, if they are light, reddish or almost no color, beware! Never use an eyebrow pencil that is more than two or three shades darker than your hair color. And apply it delicately and sparingly. First brush your brows upward and outward. Then use little -feather strokes, as though you were coloring each hair. The chief thing to remember is never to let your eyebrows look harsh. Give them a shadowy, darkening effect, never a direct pencil-line.

When should your eyebrows be plucked? Of course, if they are. overly bushy, plucking is a must. Also, if they grow too close together, a tweezer is recommended.

Here's how you can tell how close together your eyebrows should be. Look straight into your mirror and hold an eyebrow pencil vertically from the outside of nostril to the inside of eyebrow. The eyebrow should come no closer to the center of your face than the straight line of your pencil. If it comes beyond the pencil, it needs a plucking job. If it doesn't meet the pencil, fill in delicately with eyebrow pencil.

If you have a high forehead, pluck under the center of your eyebrows to give them a slight up­ward arch. Then fill in the top with pencil to complete the arch.

If your eyebrows are too highly arched in a natural way, they are apt to give you a look of perpetual surprise. In this case, pluck a few hairs from the center top.
A word of warning: don't get overly enthusiastic about plucking your brows, as if you were weeding a garden. Use tweezers with a cautious hand. Remember that eyebrow hairs are easier to take out than to grow in.

With the rest of your cosmetics, you can have fun. Except rouge, of course, which should blend with skin tones and should be used VERY spar­ingly.

Lipsticks should blend with your skin tones when you wear neutral colors. Otherwise, they should take on the bluish, orangeish or pinkish tones of the new fashions you are wearing.

The real excitement nowadays is eye glamour. Both eye shadow and eye liner can be any ex­quisite color your pretty little face desires. Mas­cara, too, can. take on many hues. All of these can fit in with the color of your latest gown, or they can be used to accentuate the blueness of your eyes, or to make them seem a fascinating green. But let's get back to the less than perfect face.

Cosmetic tricks for your chin.

If your chin is too long in proportion to the rest of your face, you can foreshorten it. No surgery is needed. Just apply a shade of foundation darker than on the rest of your face. No sharp lines of demarcation, you understand. Blend it into the lighter shade and watch your chin disappear.

The same diminishing trick can be used if your jaws seem wide or heavy. Simply smooth darker foundation onto both sides of your lower face.

This very same method can be used for the re­ceding chin. We're not talking about a double chin, perish the thought. But, if your chin slopes into your throat instead of curving away from it, try the dark foundation trick. Smooth it under your chin. Or try a bit of rouge. Use it sparingly. And, of course, blend, blend, blend.

Highlighting is the trick if your chin seems too short or if it lacks definition, as in the Round or Square face. Use a lighter shade of foundation than on the rest of your face. Blend it into the tip and accentuate the cute little chin that you have. Use a third and darker shade of founda­tion to diminish the size of the plump cheeks or squared-off jaws.

Cosmetic tricks for your nose.

If your nose seems too long, there are cosmetic tricks to foreshorten it, just as with the elongated chin. Merely apply a slightly darker foundation on the tip and blend it expertly into the lighter shade of your over-all makeup. Another trick is to put the merest touch of rouge on the tip of your nose. This will give the illusion of shortening— without being obtrusively pink.

Do just the opposite for a seemingly too short nose. Highlight it by putting a streak of lighter-than-usual makeup right down the center, from bridge to tip. Of course, blend it carefully into the regular shade on the sides of your nose or you'll look like a voodoo.

Use the same trick for a nose that appears to be too broad. But there is an extra trick here. After you have blended the light and regular shade as for the too short nose, use a third and darker shade. Blend it sparingly at the widest part of your nose.

Beauty tricks for your eyes.

Should your eyes seem too close together, foun­dation magic can come to your rescue. Use the highlight trick by applying a light shade of foun­dation from bridge of nose to forehead, then blend it into your regular shade. Other tricks are: tweeze eyebrows away from center of your face; start eye liner well away from inside corners of eyes and elongate line beyond outer corners, then give it an upward flip following the curve of your upper lashes.

If you feel your eyes are too far apart and you want to dimmish this usually attractive facet, do just the opposite of what you would do for too close eyes. Use darker, rather than lighter, foun­dation from bridge of nose to forehead. Then bring your eye liner right to the inside corners of your eyes and end it just at the outside corners, forgetting the outward, upward sweep.

There's an easy cosmetic solution to puffy eye lids, whether they are naturally so or got that way after a good cry. Eye shadow will do the trick. Use a shade to go with your eyes, rather than with your dress. Put a tiny dab half an inch below the brow. Now blend it from the crease of the lid all the way up to the eyebrow. Add another dab and blend it across your lid between the crease and your eye liner. Remember that dark colors minimize defects, and this subtle shadow will decrease the puffy appearance.

We hope you don't have circles under your eyes. But, just in case you stayed up too late and want to look as fresh as a daisy at the office, try the highlight trick. Smooth a light shade of foundation under your eyes and blend it carefully into your regular makeup. You can also try a darker-than-usual shade of eye shadow on your lids. This will act as a counter-balance.

Cosmetics tricks for your lips.

The color, or colors, you pick are all important. Every girl must have one basic shade that blends well with her skin and hair tones, whether blonde, brunette or redhead. This is to wear with neutral colored clothes. But then, it's fun to own and wear a lipstick wardrobe—a new and different shade to wear with each and every brilliant color in your clothes wardrobe.

And the way you paint your lips is most im­portant. They can be coated so heavily that they give you a vacant, clownish look. Or they can be tinted delicately, following the natural lines of the lips. Or they can be traced in a way to make them look larger or smaller, as the need may be.

There's an easy way to tell if your lips are the right width for your face. Look straight into your mirror. Now, hold your sable lipstick brush verti­cally so that the brush end is exactly in front of the center of your eye. Hold it in a straight line to your chin. Now smile—don't grin. If the corners just reach the brush, your lips are the right
width. Therefore, apply lipstick to your natural
outline.

But first, apply your foundation and powder. Be sure to dust your lips, too. Now, use your fine sable brush to make a sharp outline. Keep your mouth in a natural position—slightly opened. Now, open your mouth wide and fill in the outline. Next, bite on a fold of tissue to set the color. And don't take a drink of water or coffee for at least five minutes.

You can widen your lips—or make them narrow —by a simple cosmetic illusion. Simply “doctor” the shape by using a darker shade of lipstick to draw the outline of a perfect mouth. But don't overdo it. Never extend your natural lip line more than the width of a brush stroke.

If you have a round face, you are apt to have cute little rosebud lips. These give the effect of a round within a round. So try diminishing the upper and lower curves. Then elongate the corners. Use a darker shade of lipstick for this trickery.

Is your face heart or diamond shaped? Either way, your lips should not be too wide. Play up the center and taper off to the sides. You might try using a slightly darker shade of lipstick at the bows.

Do you have a pear-shaped face? Lips should be wide because of the width of the jaw line. Curves should be sloping, not full.

If you have a square face, your mouth should be well rounded top and bottom. Avoid any longish or squarish lines.

If you have an oblong face, your mouth should be fairly wide. But it should also be quite full-achieved with softly curved, not exaggerated, lines.

If you have a triangular face, avoid a long, thin mouth. Round your lips softly, top and bottom. Then do not carry the color all of the way to the corners if your mouth seems too wide.

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